

Hotel Pension Christoph

The cold Atlantic, Swakopmund

The Lighthouse Pub

The Seagull B&B

The Bacchus Taverne

The Grapevine Restaurant

Bay Self Catering units

The Protea Pelican Hotel

Loubser's B&B
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NAMIBIA
June 20 to 30 - August 11 to 19
Windhoek
June 20 and 21
A
(very) early start saw us back at the airport to catch our 0745 two-hour Air
Namibia flight 703 to Windhoek and the Hotel Pension Christoph. Whilst we have had a few changes this year
with our mode of transport to Sydney, then flying Air
Namibia instead of SAA or Comair to Windhoek and
accommodation in Sydney and Johannesburg we would never even contemplate
changing our accommodation in Windhoek! The ‘Christoph’, run by Amanda, cannot
be beaten, as far as we are concerned, for price and hospitality. At R495 per night
including breakfast it is worth every ‘cent’. Amanda also arranged a pick-up at
the airport costing N250. The pick-up was slightly more expensive than last
year, probably due to the massive hike in fuel prices.
We
also didn’t change our restaurants, eating the first day at the Ocean Basket
(Anne had been ‘hanging out’ for one of their seafood meals for weeks), then at
the Café Schneider – both very reasonably priced and popular with tourists and
locals alike.
After
two nights at the ‘Christoph’ we were slowly getting over our jetlag and
looking forward to the real start of the Legend Safari Tour 2008.
August 18 and 19
A
350-kilometre or so drive from Walvis Bay back to the 'Christoph' and
time to sort out what things we were going to leave in the Hilux for
our 2009 Safari, pack our
bags, do some last minute shopping, travel to the airport, and say our
fond farewells to the wonderful country of Namibia as our 0930 Air
Namibia flight winged its way to Johannesburg and Le Chateau.
SKELETON COAST
Swakopmund more
June 22 to 24
Accommodation:
With
only about a 360km drive from Windhoek on a bitumen road we soon arrived in
Swakopmund to be greeted by Keith and Spring at the Seagull
B&B.
Situated just across the road from the Atlantic Ocean, the Seagull is great
value at N280. You have the choice of several types of rooms all with an en
suite, television, hair dryer etc; however we always stay in a downstairs,
self-catering unit.
Drinking
and dining: We
arrived on a Sunday so most businesses and coffee shops were closed so we decided
to have lunch at Wimpy’s, and very
nice and inexpensive it was too.
Again we had ‘sundowners’ at the Lighthouse Pub and Restaurant (yes, it’s still
there), the Olde Brewery pub (opposite the Lighthouse) or the Bacchus
Taverne. The owner of the Bacchus, Thomas Welte, now runs a safari company Abenteuer in Namibia offering a wide
variety of tours.
Lunch was taken at Village Cafe (a great atmosphere) or the Hansa Backerei, and dinner at the Ocean Basket (of course) and The Grapevine. We hadn’t eaten at the
latter before so were very impressed by the varied menu, extensive wine list
and excellent service. Run by Jurgen and Sabine Baas, The Grapevine can be
contacted on 064 404770; it is well worth a try.
Tips:
Wireless internet
can be found in the arcade which houses Mr Price (I’ve forgotten its name) in
the main street.
Weather: Swakopmund can be freezing cold or boiling hot, depending on the direction of the wind, so remember to pack a jacket!
Walvis
Bay more
June 25
and 26
Accommodation:
Sadly
we were unable to get accommodation at our usual place, Ana’s Inn, but owner Andre very kindly organised the Bay Self Catering units in Meersig,
run by Ruan and just one street from the waterfront. As the name suggests, the
good-sized units are self catering with a refrigerator, oven, cooking and
eating utensils, along with an en suite and cable television. Excellent value
at N$250 per room per night. There was also secure parking for vehicles.
Drinking
and dining: Having
only two days at the Bay we once again opted to take lunch at Willie Probst and sundowners and pizzas
at the Raft Restaurant (bistro) in the evenings. The pizzas are delicious and the sunsets over the Bay spectacular.
Tip:
Wireless internet
can be found in the coffee shop at the Protea Pelican Hotel, which has
luxurious accommodation set right on the waterfront opposite the Raft.
Weather: Walvis Bay, like Swakopmund can be freezing cold, so pack a jacket! And it can be boiling hot so keep that in mind also!
August 15 to 18
Accommodation and dining: As it was a last minute decision to spend three
nights at Walvis Bay before making our way to Windhoek for our last two
nights in Namibia we couldn't get accommodation at Ana's Inn or the Bay Self Catering, but managed to find a room at Loubser's B&B/Self Catering. This
comprised of twin beds and a double bunk and en suite, plus a bar
fridge, stove top and some crockery and cutlery. At N$250 per night it
was pretty good value, even if it was a little cramped and did not have
television! The units also had a secure parking area.
Again, we ate lunch at Willie Probst and dinner (and drinks) at the Raft Restaurant Bistro. We happened to be in the 'Bay' on Sunday so very few restaurants were open, except for the Spur Steakhouse
which was packed out and we were served a delicious meal. Like
Swakopmund, Walvis Bay certainly 'dies' on a Sunday, especially after
about 1:00pm when the few franchise businesses close.
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| The 'real' lighthouse at Swakopmund |
At the Ocean Basket with Keith & Spring |
Sunset over the Atlantic |
The Raft Restaurant, Walvis Bay |
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INLAND
Otavi more
June 27
Accommodation
and dining: Again,
we stayed at the Otavi Gardens Hotel and Pension (phone+264 67 234336) but
this year we stayed in one of the thatched roof cabins situated in the hotel grounds
rather than the hotel itself: we thought it would be quieter as we arrived on
the last Friday of the month – pay day, when the locals party for hours on end!
The cabins are spacious, and with an en
suite, but there is neither television nor tea/coffee making facilities. At
N$320 per room per night, including a hearty breakfast, it’s quite good value.
The dinner menu hasn’t changed for years, so we always know what we are going
to eat!
Rundu
June
28, 29 and 30; August 12 and 13
Like last year, we were lucky to stay with
friends for a few days, but there are many lodges and hotels available. This
large inland town is growing immensely, with several new arcades either
completed during the past 12 months, or being completed. There is a big Chinese
influence in this area.
One dining establishment not to be missed is
the Forget-Me-Not coffee lounge
in
one of the new arcades along the main street. Run by Piti and Diana the
lounge
specialises in delicious homemade cakes and slices and has an extensive
luncheon menu. Keith says it makes the best hamburgers in the whole of
Africa! During the past 12 months an outside dining area has been
created in a beautiful garden setting. This coffee lounge, open from
Monday to noon on Saturdays is a hugely popular spot for locals and
tourists alike.
Omaruru
August 14
Having suddenly decided to spend three nights in
Walvis Bay at this, the end of our holiday we drove the 610-kilometres
from Rundu to Omaruru in one hit. It was quite an easy drive, on an
exellent bitumen road with very little traffic.
Accommodation: Like last year we stayed in the thatched roof units situated in the grounds of the Omaruru Central Hotel. The
rooms are spacious (no television!), clean and each has an en suite
containing a shower and bath. At N$380 a night, including breakfast,
it's good value. And the evening meal menu is extensive. Omaruru
appears to be going ahead in leaps and bounds.
Katima
Mulilo
July 1
The 500 or so kilometres from Rundu to Katima
passed quickly as the road is in excellent condition and had little traffic. We
stopped at Otjiiwaronga to have
lunch at the Café Otto Carstensen. This bakerie/café
serves excellent food and drinks and is reasonably price. It also has a huge
range of cakes and chocolates.
Accommodation
and dining:
We have stayed at the Mukusi Cabins for many years, so it
was our first stop this year – and it hasn’t changed much!! Except, that this
year the booking we made in advance was actually noted and a cabin was ready
for us! The cost of the two-bed room with en suite was N$400, the same as last
year. This does not include breakfast. Oscar was still in charge of the bar and
he made us most welcome. Sadly, the restaurant seems to be going downhill fast:
the menu hasn’t changed for years and the meal Anne was served (calamari with
chips and salad) was appalling. One wonders how anyone can mess up something as
simple as that! Unfortunately, the Mukusi restaurant appears to be about the
only place in Katima to get an evening meal – this will be looked into more
closely when we return towards the end of our holidays!
July 2 we crossed the
border at Katima to begin our Zambian safari.
August 11
Accommodation and dining: It was with great sadness we left our
friends in Zimbabwe, wondering what fate had in store for them, and
crossed the border into Botswana, drove along the highway through the Chobe National Park, and
back into Namibia and the Mukusi Cabins. We
had phoned through a booking and, amazingly, a room was nearly ready
for us - however we had booked a cabin for two and were given one which
had three bedrooms, two toilets and an en suite, and a lounge/cooking
area (with television), all large enough to house five people! And then they tried to
charge us the room rate of N$560 a night! That was quickly nipped in
the bud and we paid the normal two-person rate of N$400 per
night!!
Again we had dinner at Muukusi, but for lunch found the delightful Baobab Bistro
which served an excellent light meal and is situated in the main street
in the block after the turnoff to Kongola. The Bistro also has wireless Internet available but it's a bit pricey at N$20 for 20-minutes.
Katima is another Namibian town showing rapid expansion of its business area.
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Otavi Gardens Hotel Pension

The Rundu 'Tearabouts'

Diana and Keith at Forget-Me-Not

Omaruru Central Hotel

Driving along in Katima we
suddenly saw our old 'Landy'
parked on the roadside

The Kavango River and Angola

The Mukusi Cabins
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Tips:
Roads: We travelled from
Windhoek to Karibib, Usakos, Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, back to Usakos, Karibib
where you turn off to Otjiwarona, Otavi, Grootfontein, Rundu and Katima Mulilo.
All sections are in excellent condition and do not seem to carry a huge amount
of traffic. The speed limit is mostly 120KPH.
Fuel: Like everywhere else
the cost of fuel has risen sharply to N$9.07 for unleaded petrol – with our
exchange rate this is less than we pay in Australia.
ATMs
and internet:
Most towns have these facilities, but not many have wireless access.
Border
post at Katima:
A new building is almost complete, so when this is finished it should make
things a little more efficient. When you leave Namibia you must sign the exit
book for your (Namibian-registered) vehicle and show the vehicle’s police
clearance – the latter to prove that the vehicle has not been stolen. The usual
procedure with passports is in place.
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